A(N)D DIS IS SPENCER AND MANDA'S BLOG: TIME FLIES WHEN YOU ARE FLYING AROUND

Hello to one and all (probably down to one by now!!)

In case you had forgotten, we were in Ethiopia working for The Brooke and of course having some fun...

More pics and explanation, plus the front view at the bottom of the blog!! Just couldn't resist. Sorry.

But before we finish with tales of how we were 'kicked out' and had a whistle stop trip to see historical wonders and amazing tribes (plates in lips etc) a short note that we have just arrived in Lusaka,Zambia for a month when we were supposed to be going to Rwanda but had work permit issues. Of course it's mad but what did you expect? We are working for 'Send A Cow. Yes it is a very strange name and it used to do what it says on the tin,but now has a broader focus. Look at the website www.sendacow.org and all will be revealed.

Apart from working (of course) we managed a couple of birding trips and a game reserve. Camping in a game reserve is fun but getting the car stuck in the mud for several hours in the boiling heat 30C+ is not. We also managed to sleep through several hundred buffalo passing our tent in the night and our guide caught a snake.Harmless snake, not a black mamba.

Emerald cuckoo. Every time you think the colours can't get better......... They are usually well hidden so this is a great view.

Of course once again time has passed and I have just returned from Lusaka after 2 weeks on my own finishing off what I started before Xmas and handing over yet again to a local person. Manda stayed home as there was no funding for her to do any more work. Can't say that life was fun on my own. No one to moan to!! The good news for me was that I avoided Manda' stinking cold and the good news for Manda was that she cold spend 2 weeks tidying the house up,decluttering and putting things I had carefully placed to find later somewhere else. Okay it was me that put my house keys in a jacket pocket Manda but not the rest

Apart from a lovely family who we met previously and who kindly fed me one night, and a game of golf there was little to do. I say I played golf but it was more like a long hard walk (7000 yards plus) with intermittent various wild attempts to hit the ball vaguely in the direction of the hole.

Food wise I am sad to say I ordered take away pizza twice and a curry. Not in one day! It doesn't help that power cuts last 8 hours every day so the chance to cook becomes a lottery. As for the internet. How did we survive before? Answers on a postcard. Actually forget that idea. Posting things to Africa is like posting something into a black hole in space and hoping it eventually comes out the other end

It is the rainy season but with global warming ( or is it?) the rains have been poor but enough so that my walk to work involved trying to avoid getting my feet wet due to the flooded road. Only went in twice. Balance not as good as it used to be alas. Rule 1 - don't wear good shoes

Zambia is a massive Country and 7,000 miles away (an equivalent is a trip west to Hawaii for those happier in first world nations ) and took an 11 hour plus trip to Joburg and then another 2 hours from there to arrive. Politically it is very peaceful for an African country and they actually have elections that mean something. Amazing.

Anyway, this should of course have been 2 separate blogs

I am definitely getting worse. So back to Ethiopia.........

Meskel - the national flower

After being told we had 15 days to leave Ethiopia we were given 30 days in the end (September) when renewing our visas and then Ethiopia unceremoniously kicked us out. We had to grovel to four layers of management before reaching the head of immigration who ignored us but graciously allowed us to stay till the end of the month ie September. A wonderful country, but unfortunately with a government that is very controlling, especially with charities. Every month we had about 3 visits to the immigration office, paid our $60 each and then were allowed another 30 days stay.

The elections in April resulted in not one opposition member of parliament being elected. During all our time in the country we met just one Government supporter who voted for them as he said they were better than the last lot, a Communist government who were apparently not very nice and executed and imprisoned thousands. Many just didn't bother to vote and the result was known well before the 'election'.

Now it is more subtle. Apart from the throttling of the Ethiopian and international charities' activities with ludicrous rules they also are not afraid to detain people for no good reason. Before a major religious festival they rounded up about 100 tour guides and kept them in a prison till after the event, including our guide. We couldn't get in to the main square because Manda had a camera and you needed a license!! Of course a camera on a phone was overlooked.

Any different to Uganda and South Africa and other countries where the ruling parties have a long term stranglehold? Probably not, and the subject of a very long discussion as to whether the Western idea of democracy can work in Africa. Thankfully you will be pleased to hear that it is not a debate for this blog that prides itself on pretty pictures and silly comments.

We were home in the UK again and sad to leave Ethiopia but happy to be home to see friends and family. A few people have asked if we have got 'it' out of our system. Not sure what 'it' is but when I walked out of my business seven years ago I knew my life was about to change drastically so 'it' will never be out of my system and Manda is in the same position having made the same choice three years ago.

On the work front, with literally two weeks to spare we found my permanent replacement, a lovely lady with bags of experience who can gel together the team we assembled before finding her. It was only on our last day at work that the team met up, so much to do. It would have been great to stay on for another month but I can give support from afar and to be honest the team need space and not have me under their feet. I then spent a few weeks in the London office and reminded myself why travelling in the rush hour is so awful.

So five months of working hard and building a team and a last chance to see some of the country. 7 internal flights in a week allowed us to visit some great places.

First up Lalibela where 11 churches have been carved out of the stone ground which took over 20 years. 8th wonder of the world?

A priest protecting the church

Then to Gondar where castles were built by different kings and we also got a brief trip to the Simian mountains. A bit foggy up there but then we were never big trekkers!

Gelada baboon. Not to be messed with

'Go away. I just want some peace and quiet'

Axum and its mighty stelae and where the Ark of the Covenant is supposed to be. Also the Queen of Sheba's palace where we sheltered from the rain in her kitchen. Not even a cup of tea offered!

Onwards to the South where we had a chance to see tribes who may be lost to the world as technology invades, such as a massive dam, and roads are built. Having seen a documentary on the Mursi tribe (where the ladies use lip plates) and their relationship with tourists I was very put off going but Manda wanted the chance to see them so we went. Worth doing even though with the Mursi and some others you pay per photo plus 3 in the picture then 3 payments!

Firstly the bull running ceremony which we were lucky to see. A boy proves he is fit to be a husband by running across the back of bulls. You may have seen it on television. If he falls off he is the laughing stock of his mates forever. So no pressure then.

Spot the bull/ball contest!!! Sorry again

Before this one of the most amazing and shocking things we have seen. Strong stomachs required. The women are whipped by the men and the blood runs. Scars are a sign of beauty. Not to be tried at home

Scars are clear;y visible. Decided not to show the actual beating. Lots of alcohol and drugs

The women fight each other to get hit and goad the men to hit them hard. They also cover themselves in mud and plait their hair with mud. Max Factor No 11 I think. I was offered the chance to have a go but politely declined