Saturday, 17 September 2016

COAST TO COAST LA TO CHICAGO (DOVER TO ELMINA ACTUALLY)

Hello to one and all from a pleasantly cool Elmina. Why I think of song lyrics when considering a blog title I have no idea. Probably the frustrated musician in me that never was. Never had my father's voice alas, so second lead in Kiss Me Kate was the highlight of my showbiz career and singing as an Ugly Sister in panto you can get away with murder. But I digress....

NEWS FLASH ...
For those of you who know what a wild driver I am,whilst driving at a relatively sedate pace I was stopped by the police for 'speeding'. I was supposedly driving at about 45mph in a built up area. The fact that there were no speed limit signs or indeed built up area (well 3 houses) seems to have made no difference. So what do you do in that position when you know there was no way they actually clocked your speed? Simple.You do what everyone else here does. You dash (bribe) them. So 2cedis ie 40p later I was on my way. That is the way the police work here.
A Ghana policeman's idea of a built up area


Also I almost got my nose bitten off by an over excitable puppy, one of four, who we give leftovers to on our way to work. They do jump high. Takes me back 45 years to my very old friend Mark's barmitzvah when his dog Daniel the Spaniel almost playfully bit Mark's nose off. Displaying DSC02873.jpeg
Manda catches the moment. Tiny scratch but nice lot of blood!

After the first few months of stifling humidity  apparently Ghana does have a very nice period where the weather is relatively cool 24/25C and I can work with just a fan and without the brand new air conditioning unit acquired for my office (I never thought I would be writing that!)  . Of course it will end at some point and I will have the lengthy discussions/ minor arguments with Manda that in my humble opinion the length of her hair makes her hot. Can't wait. In fact having just read out to her the last paragraph has already had a go at me. Oh what fun.

Well for those of you who forgot to send us a card, which was everybody, we have just celebrated the third anniversary of our departure from the white cliffs of Dover for sub Saharan shores. Yes of course we have been back to the UK a number of times but Africa has been our home really in that period despite us moving about from South Africa,Uganda, Ethiopia, Zambia and now Ghana.

We are committed to a minimum of a year here and in the past month or so have settled into a very relaxed and pleasant lifestyle. We lived in the volunteer house for several months but had agreed to move out when we found somewhere and finally we have what can only be described as a beach front chalet. Actually rocks front but you know what I mean.For those of you who are not mine or Manda's Facebook friends (there are no secrets anymore with Facebook!) here are some pictures of our seaside idyll which is a 10 minute walk to work. Transformed from the pictures shown previously.





If a Butlins holiday camp went to rack and ruin it would look like where we live. Water and electricity were reasonably constant which for Africa means only one or the other is off at any one time in the day. We are away from the loud speakers of bars and churches ( is there some sort of secret competition  going on here between God and mammon as to who can be the loudest?) so just the sound of the waves to lull us to sleep.

Okay time for Mr Angry/ grumpy 'not so old' man to make his regular appearance. In the last six weeks we have had no running water having gone 5 weeks with a regular dribble. Having worked for WaterAid and seen people walk miles for water you would have thought we would know better than to moan. However to cut a long story very short (which as you all know I can generally bore for England) one of our landlord has decided that due to a number of tenants not paying their share each month the money he collects for water and electricity will go towards electricity so he can sit around all day watching his television. He can send his kids to the well to collect water. A meeting between landlords and tenants was arranged and in a diabetes fuelled rant I made my views clear but obviously a complete waste of time. Manda did tell me to shut up which I eventually did. So no water but at least we now will get a bin for rubbish and the rubbish tip near us may even be cleared. Of course still no bins,rubbish not cleared and now well is empty so people have to walk with buckets to a stand pipe about a 1/4 mile away. Luckily we have a tank outside we can get filled up my a man with a small tanker. Bucket bath and showers for us.

I should also mention that before we moved to the beach the house we lived in was broken in to whilst we were out . My computer was taken and my 'myfi'. We arrived home to see the front door had been forced open and a crowd then arrived at our gate led by our office security man. We were told that they had chased the thief and seen where he left the computer and amazingly 10 minutes later the computer was returned intact. It seems everyone knows the thief and where he lives but they let him go. We couldn't be bothered to try and get the police involved as it would have cost us a bribe to get them to do anything. That is life here. At least I only lost the myfi.

So daily life. Elmina and the Cape Coast are tourist attractions due to the slave castles and we finally visited one. It is scary to understand the conditions they lived in and how many slaves from all over Africa left the shores forever and how many lost their lives there and on the ships.

Also at the moment I have no passport as my application is being processed for a residence and work permit so we can stay beyond September. Hopefully no emergencies at home in that time as the thought of trying to get my passport back from the immigration office in Accra is scary. Red tape rules. Manda then applies for a spouse permit so again no passport for at least a month after that.

As we have no television, cinemas,theatres, Am Dram groups, golf courses etc we use the internet a lot (well I do) and read a lot of books (well Manda does). We also look at the sea a lot. Cue for sanity check! The tides are one of our favourite topics and watching the waves and sometimes at night the green glowing algae on the top of the waves provides endless interest. We will never get tired of the view.

We are supposed to be getting ourselves bikes to get a bit fitter but laziness has prevailed. I still have the Lands End to John O'Groats dream but it is on hold at the moment.

Food is also a constant topic. We have no oven but our two ring gas hob works well albeit the flame is a bit fierce so burnt offerings can easily be made instead of supper if the pot is not watched carefully. Who said a watched pot never boils? Oh yes it does.

If you are easily shocked look away now. I tried some 'bush meat'  the other day. No not venison but. what is a giant cane rat called a grass cutter . Very tasty indeed if you forget what it looks like live. It helped that I ate guinea pig and chips in Peru many years back
The back leg was very tasty



Shopping in the markets is fun and on the whole we do not get ripped off as immigrants. Notice my use of the word immigrants as opposed to ex-pats. I don't take too much notice of Facebook articles but interesting to note the distinction between people coming to the UK to work and us jolly Brits working abroad. We buy meat from a place I know many of you might have trouble with hygiene wise but so far no problems.Liver and onions with mash was a real treat today. Being brutally honest, there is no doubt that at some point you will get the runs but to be honest you just get on with life.

Dead squirrel now in someone's tummy
It is also nice to buy fruit and veg in season. Avocados have gone but paw paw and mangos are great at the moment. Coconuts literally fall from the trees all the time. Could have bought a squirrel the other day for 60p but declined. Maybe next time!

There is of course a very large choice of fish in the market so you don't really need the bush meat but hey ho it is nice to mix up your diet. I had a very nice piece of barracuda the other day and Manda loves the lobster

AND FINALLY........
I will never stop saying how lucky we are in life and how you need to enjoy life whilst you can. Have no regrets. Manda and I send all our love to Barbara and family. Jack's golfing buddy misses the relaxed days golfing and chatting at Abridge whilst our friends slaved in their offices xxx




Saturday, 28 May 2016

OLE OLE, OLE OLE , FEELING HOT HOT HOT !!!!!!!



Dear all ,

 Manda and I hope you are 'all' well.All makes it sound like thousands of people. Of course it has taken me forever to start writing again. Samuel Pepys I aint, that's for sure.For the majority of you who think we are a bit mad already then I think I can safely assure you that you were right all along.So ,as ever,fasten your seatbelts, grab a bottle of your favourite tipple, put your feet up and relax.Sorry but there is much to tell involving heat, humidity,dogs and cats, our house sale, boat purchase and a seafront cottage.

'But first 'Where are you now?'I hear you ask. The centre of the earth to be precise, well about 200 miles from it. Not in a ball of magma but at 0,0 where the Greenwich Meridian and the Equator cross ,or would if you could mark the spot in the ocean. I think there is a marker buoy but have no desire to find out.

However we might as well be at the centre of the Earth as I can safely say that this is the most humid place we have ever been to. Elmina in Ghana is where we have ended up which is about 3 1/2 hours along the coast from Accra, the capital. It seems that Africa has us in her grip. If you live in Northern climes you will appreciate how cold the wind chill factor can make it feel. Here we have the opposite. Today's weather forecast on a relatively cool day in the rainy season is :


Partly Cloudy Morning Afternoon Evening  Night
Temperature 26 °c 32 °c 31 °c 29 °c
Feels Like 30 °c 40 °c 42 °c 37 °c

MANDA'S NEW HAIRSTYLE AFTER 50+ YEARS
I am getting used to it and Manda is coping reasonably. I have suggested she cuts her hair short but that is like asking the Queen to abdicate or Arsene Wenger to resign.

'My singing isn't that bad'

Manda captures  the building team in natural work pose!!!! 


'So why Ghana?' I hear you ask. Questions, questions!!! Well having had such a protracted trip to Zambia we realised that we needed a longer time in one place to really get into the work and the country and people. Our last hurrah of living abroad? Maybe. Who knows. This open ended job  (minimum one year) came up which not only gives me plenty to do (as ever) but also falls right into Manda's area of expertise. Sabre Charitable Trust - see their website - are a relatively small charity, income under £1m - but growing fast ,who build kindergartens in remote areas and work with the Government and teacher training colleges to improve the level of teaching for 4-6 year olds. The maxim of “Give me a child until he is 7 and I will show you the man (or woman).” certainly has merits. Anyone wishing to dispute this please see Manda. I just press buttons on a calculator.

What happened to this 7 year old?


Oh dear !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As ever we miss friends and family but have been lucky enough to get home for 2 weddings and will be home in June for another wedding and Mum and Monty's Silver Wedding (both on their second). 85 and 92 and doing really well

So before I give you some info about life in Ghana a few domestic issues to clear up. We are selling the house after 22 years and will be living on a Dutch Barge.'Why would you do that?'  Why indeed. After 3 years of hardly living in the house and with the kids pretty much gone, okay Alex has his own place, Ben is currently in Barcelona and a world wanderer and Katya will be forced to live out under the stars but she'll be okay, we realise that we don't actually need the house. Without going into detail (ask us and we can bore for England if you want the detail) we have bought a boat in Holland and it will be refurbished in England and we hope it will be moored in London docklands but probably Windsor first. So here it is:

Name to be changed. Any suggestions?
3 bedrooms so all welcome to stay
, 25.5 m long and 5.5m wide. Engine the same as the old London bus- Ding Ding - move right down please

We hope to sail her a bit. We can apparently get up the Thames to Oxford and also use all the European canal network - France , Germany etc.

But that is for the future. So what is life in Ghana like apart from hot and humid. Well we are in a beautiful spot on the coast and are just about to move out of the charity accommodation and get a small cottage (in London they call it a bijou studio flat) right on the seafront.

A cloudy day but not a bad view from our verandah. Elmina Castle in the distance

Just needs a little bit of work and it will be perfect. Join Manda on Facebook for regular updates

Elmina castle has a dark history. Dutch slavers built them and it was the last view of home for many slaves. These days it is a laid back fishing village with colourful boats going in and out. In fact Ghana is very laid back generally and certainly one of the safer and freer democratic countries in Africa. Unfortunately there is very little tourist infrastructure. We would love to have people come out and visit us and can show you around and have a few lovely days at a beachside resort but can't promise you the animals of East and South Africa.

We seem to keep busy and have various eateries in walking distance or 60p taxi to Cape Coast about 15 minutes away. Food is interesting. As with most of Africa they like a bit of stodge - Fufu, Banku etc which are made from cassava but a lot of chicken and fish too. We go to the Tilapia lady, who strangely enough sells Tilapia, who has a stall a minute away on Ghana's equivalent of the M1 in the UK. A 2 lane coastal road that runs from the Ivory Coast  border through Accra to the Togo border. Just a bit of geography for you. We have also discovered Bisap which is made principally from Hibiscus flowers,ginger,cinammon and fresh pineapple juice which of course doesn't stop us going to the local hotel's happy hour on a Friday night. After a tough week we need some R&R.

We have various house mates coming and going but I should give honourable mention to our resident 'rocket scientist' which alas doesn't help in the house at all as most things of course are not rocket science .

We look after 3 dogs and 2 cats at the moment who live in the charity accommodation. Cue pictures.
Light was fading so a bit of a fuzzy pic. Our furry friends. The cats sensibly stay well clear


They are very cute and very loving and the dogs bark well at strangers. The female follows us everywhere and then tries to jump into our arms when the packs of local dogs who are very territorial start trouble as we pass. Thankfully most of the dog packs are all mouth and trousers.

If we want some entertainment then the places to go to are the petrol stations. No we do not stand and fill up the passing cars. They have bars,DJs ,live music, football on the telly and food as well as mini supermarkets. Oh yes I almost forgot that they also sell petrol. Strange indeed.

For live football its the Elmina Sharks or the Cape Coast Dwarves. Almost Premiership prices. 60p for the standing and 1.00 for the seats. Reminds me of football prices in the 70s. A group of ladies in black and white sang and danced the whole way through. They came direct from a funeral it turns out.


The Sharks in Green with a crowd of about 500. 

We don't have a car at the moment so rely on a 'tro' which is basically a mini bus driven at breakneck speed between towns. Otherwise for local trips it's a shared taxi or if we are feeling 'rich' we get a 'drop' taxi for just the two of us. Taxis are in various states of disrepair but a lot better than Addis where the rust was held together by string and a prayer.

Grumpy old man status was reached by me a number of years back so I would like to add to my list of gripes  the wanton littering which is actually far from just a Ghana thing. Here though plastic bags are used for everything and water is sold in plastic sachets. As an example we sat by the beach at a local bar and the waiter took my finished water sachet and just threw it over the wall onto the beach. Grrrrr.....

Well enough of my eternal rambling. It's bad enough that I prattle on verbally when my sugar levels go all over the place let alone in writing. We promise to do  this a bit sooner next time. I always say that as well.

And finally a few of Manda's photos. And yes the word Rabbi is on the boats!!!!!!!!!!











Monday, 25 January 2016

TIME FLIES WHEN YOU ARE FLYING AROUND

 Hello to one and all (probably down to one by now!!)

In case you had forgotten, we were in Ethiopia working for The Brooke and of course having some fun...
More pics and explanation, plus the front view at the bottom of the blog!!  Just couldn't resist. Sorry. 

But before we finish with tales of how we were 'kicked out' and had a whistle stop trip to see historical wonders and amazing tribes (plates in lips etc) a short note that we have just arrived in Lusaka,Zambia for a month when we were supposed to be going to Rwanda but had work permit issues. Of course it's mad but what did you expect? We are working for 'Send A Cow. Yes it is a very strange name and it used to do what it says on the tin,but now has a broader focus. Look at the website www.sendacow.org  and all will be revealed.

Apart from working (of course) we managed a couple of birding trips and a game reserve. Camping in a game reserve is fun but getting the car stuck in the mud for several hours in the boiling heat 30C+ is not. We also managed to sleep through several hundred buffalo passing our tent in the night and our guide caught a snake.Harmless snake, not a black mamba.

Emerald cuckoo. Every time you think the colours can't get better......... They are usually well hidden so this is a great view. 

Of course once again time has passed and I have just returned from Lusaka after 2 weeks on my own finishing off what I started before Xmas and handing over yet again to a local person. Manda stayed home as there was no funding for her to do any more work. Can't say that life was fun on my own. No one to moan to!! The good news for me was that I avoided Manda' stinking cold and the good news for Manda was that she cold spend 2 weeks tidying the house up,decluttering and putting things I had carefully placed to find later somewhere else. Okay it was me that put my house keys in a jacket pocket Manda but not the rest

Apart from a lovely family who we met previously and who kindly fed me one night, and a game of golf there was little to do. I say I played golf but it was more like a long hard walk (7000 yards plus) with intermittent various wild attempts to hit the ball vaguely in the direction of the hole.

 Food wise I am sad to say I ordered take away pizza twice and a curry. Not in one day! It doesn't help that power cuts last 8 hours every day so the chance to cook becomes a lottery. As for the internet. How did we survive before? Answers on a postcard. Actually forget that idea. Posting things to Africa is like posting something into a black hole in space and hoping it eventually comes out the other end

It is the rainy season but with global warming ( or is it?) the rains have been poor but enough so that my walk to work involved trying to avoid getting my feet wet due to the flooded road. Only went in twice. Balance not as good as it used to be alas. Rule 1 - don't wear good shoes

Zambia is a massive Country and 7,000 miles away (an equivalent is a trip west to Hawaii  for those happier in first world nations ) and took an 11 hour plus trip to Joburg and then another 2 hours from there to arrive. Politically it is very peaceful for an African country and they actually have elections that mean something. Amazing.

Anyway, this should of course have been 2 separate blogs
I am definitely getting worse. So back to Ethiopia.........

Meskel - the national flower


After being told we had 15 days to leave Ethiopia we were given 30 days in the end (September) when renewing our visas and then Ethiopia unceremoniously kicked us out. We had to grovel to four layers of management before reaching the head of immigration who ignored us but graciously allowed us to stay till the end of the month ie September. A wonderful country, but unfortunately with a government that is very controlling, especially with charities. Every month we had about 3 visits to the immigration office, paid our $60 each and then were allowed another 30 days stay.

The elections in April resulted in not one opposition member of parliament being elected. During all our time in the country we met just one Government supporter who voted for them as he said they were better than the last lot, a Communist government who were apparently not very nice and executed and imprisoned thousands. Many just didn't bother to vote and the result was known well before the 'election'.

Now it is more subtle. Apart from the throttling of the Ethiopian and international charities' activities with ludicrous rules they also are not afraid to detain people for no good reason. Before a major religious festival they rounded up about 100 tour guides and kept them in a prison till after the event, including our guide. We couldn't get in to the main square because Manda had a camera and you needed a license!! Of course a camera on a phone was overlooked.

Any different to Uganda and South Africa and other countries where the ruling parties have a long term stranglehold? Probably not, and the subject of a very long discussion as to whether the Western idea of democracy can work in Africa. Thankfully you will be pleased to hear that it is not a debate for this blog that prides itself on pretty pictures and silly comments.

We were home in the UK again and sad to leave Ethiopia but happy to be home to see friends and family. A few people have asked if we have got 'it' out of our system. Not sure what 'it' is but when I walked out of my business seven years ago I knew my life was about to change drastically so 'it' will never be out of my system and Manda is in the same position having made the same choice three years ago.

On the work front, with literally two weeks to spare we found my permanent replacement, a lovely lady with bags of experience who can gel together the team we assembled before finding her. It was only on our last day at work that the team met up, so much to do. It would have been great to stay on for another month but I can give support from afar and to be honest the team need space and not have me under their feet. I then spent a few weeks in the London office and reminded myself why travelling in the rush hour is so awful.

So five months of working hard and building a team and a last chance to see some of the country. 7 internal flights in a week allowed us to visit some great places.

First up Lalibela where 11 churches have been carved out of the stone ground which took over 20 years. 8th wonder of the world?
A priest protecting the church

Then to Gondar where castles were built by different kings and we also got a brief trip to the Simian mountains. A bit foggy up there but then we were never big trekkers!






Gelada baboon. Not to be messed with

'Go away. I just want some peace and quiet'

Axum and its mighty stelae and where the Ark of the Covenant is supposed to be. Also the Queen of Sheba's palace where we sheltered from the rain in her kitchen. Not even a cup of tea offered!


Onwards to the South where we had a chance to see tribes who may be lost to the world as technology invades, such as a massive dam, and roads are built. Having seen a documentary on the Mursi tribe (where the ladies use lip plates) and their relationship with tourists I was very put off going but Manda wanted the chance to see them so we went. Worth doing even though with the Mursi and some others you pay per photo plus 3 in the picture then 3 payments!

Firstly the bull running ceremony which we were lucky to see. A boy proves he is fit to be a husband by running across the back of bulls. You may have seen it on television. If he falls off he is the laughing stock of his mates forever. So no pressure then.

Spot the bull/ball contest!!! Sorry again

Before this one of the most amazing and shocking things we have seen. Strong stomachs required. The women are whipped by the men and the blood runs. Scars are a sign of beauty. Not to be tried at home

Scars are clear;y visible. Decided not to show the actual beating. Lots of alcohol and drugs

The women fight each other to get hit and goad the men to hit them hard. They also cover themselves in mud and plait their hair with mud. Max Factor No 11 I think. I was offered the chance to have a go but politely declined





There are many tribes and they often meet at markets to buy and chat



Outfits of the old and new. Rare Chelsea shirts. They all support Arsenal


Our landlady for the night. We slept under the stars surrounded by a herd of very well behaved goats
The Mursi tribe famous for their lip plates. Unfortunately due to tourism some wear stupid additions

The lip plate should be plain and the beads and yellow bits are for the tourists plus the basket is not carried on the head. Sad
Without the extra bits!!!

And finally a few other tribes. Manda of course has taken a million pictures but they tell the story of our journey so please enjoy









This man looks hard and he is. He has apparently killed 3 men in stick fights.


WHERE TO NEXT? WE DON'T KNOW BUT WATCH THIS SPACE.